In an attempt to keep our content accurate and representative of evolving scholarship, we invite you to give feedback on any information in this article.

    This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.


    ARTICLE

    Angarkha

    Map Academy

    Articles are written collaboratively by the EIA editors. More information on our team, their individual bios, and our approach to writing can be found on our About pages. We also welcome feedback and all articles include a bibliography (see below).

    A loose-fitted tunic that is tied on the side around the waist, derived from the jama, angarkha derives its name from the Sanskrit word angaraksha which means “that which protects or covers the limbs.”

    Angarkha bears a very close resemblance to the jama, with the difference being that unlike jama it is not fitted around the breast, but the waist. Its length and flare vary, but it is known to commonly be nearly knee-length and frock-shaped. A version named angarkhi, denotes a shorter cut that reaches just below the hips. Little is known about the point at which angarkha was developed separately from the jama but its relative lightness is attributed to a point of origin, perhaps in Rajasthan, where it was a formal dress in the ceremonial court known as the kamari angarkhi, reaching only the until the waist. Often, it has an opening around the chest, which is covered by a parda (inner flap) and tied around the waist.

    Angarkha became a prominent costume of the court of the Nawab of Awadh during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and was made in a range of materials and styles – from muslin and chikankari in the summers to brocade and velvet for festive occasions. It was worn with a churidaar pajama underneath.

     
    Bibliography

    Goswamy, BN. Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles. Ahmedabad: Calico Museum. 2010.

    Kumar, Monisha and Amita Walia. “Elucidation of the Indian Salwar Kameez.” Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Advances in Education and Social Sciences. October 2016. http://www.ocerint.org/adved16_e-proceedings/papers/26.pdf

    Safvi, Rana. “The Angarkha or the Angrakshak.” RanaSafvi.com. Accessed, September 29, 2021. https://ranasafvi.com/the-angarkha/

    Sharma, Madhu. “Costume and Costume-craft in Nawabi Awadh.” Proceedings of the Indian History Congress, vol. 32 (II). 1970. https://www.jstor.org/stable/44138523

    Feedback
     
    Related Content
    loading