ARTICLE
Bhotia Wool Weaving
The Bhotias harvest wool from their own flocks or purchase it in markets; before the war, they favoured a Tibetan variety obtained through trade, but this has since been substituted largely by Ludhiana wool. Textile production begins by scouring the wool in a solution made from a local fruit called pangar (Himalayan horse-chestnut, Aesculus indica) which acts as a natural detergent. The cleaned wool is carded and spun into yarn on a Bageshwari charkha, a treadle-operated spinning wheel. For most textiles, the wool is used in its natural shades of white, cream, brown and black; these are sometimes blended to make shades of grey during the carding process. For colourful textiles such as the dann and asan, the yarn was dyed using extracts from flowers, fruits and tree bark; these are now replaced by cheaper and more accessible synthetic dyes.
Bhotia textiles are woven on a variety of looms. The dann, asan and chutka are pile textiles, woven on a vertical or high-warp loom (locally called dann raanch or khara raanch). They are made by hand-knotting yarn across a plain weave, and tamping down each row of knotted piles with a comb or mallet. The most popular knotting techniques among the tribes are the Turkish and Persian knotting techniques, though the Rungs are singularly known to use the Tibetan knotting technique. Once the textile is complete, it is cut loose from the loom, and the threads on either end are knotted to make fringes. The uneven pile is then trimmed to a level surface, with motifs sometimes contoured to look like they are projecting from the surface. The textile is washed and dried in the sun, then stretched to size on a metal frame.
Plain weave textiles such as the thulma, pakhi and coat–patti are made on a pit loom (known as a khadda raanch), a horizontal treadle loom or a backstrap loom. The soft and fuzzy napped surface of the thulma is achieved by teasing out the fibres on the finished surface with a brush of fine nails.
The dann is about 2 metres long and 1.5 metres wide. Asans measure about half a metre across, and may be square or oblong, measuring between 2 and 2.5 metres in length. The dann and asan are the Bhotia’s only commercial textiles to feature colourful motifs and imagery. These patterns appear in the centre field, borders and corners, and are woven in bright colours and outlined to add dimension and to contrast with the solid dark ground.
Prior to commercialisation, the centre field typically depicted intricate geometric designs, and later incorporated imagery from Tibetan mythology, such as the mythical birds dak and jira as well as the Chinese dragon known in Tibetan Buddhism as dug. In contemporary danns, large floral motifs such as the kamal (lotus) and chameli (jasmine) occupy the central field. The borders of the dann, up to 20 centimetres wide, feature geometric patterns such as the changri (a medallion with a flower and stem on either side), matu (a double key meander) kaan (ear), swastika and moti (pearl). Danns prominently featuring the colour yellow are woven for wedding ceremonies, where they are gifted to bless the bride with a happy married life.
The Bhotia people continue to sell their woollen goods in local markets and at annual crafts fairs held at Bageshwar, Jauljibi and Thal. Goods such as the dann even have a dedicated international clientele. Despite this, machine-made synthetic alternatives pose a threat to demand for these textiles, and many Bhotia have pursued other sources of income. In 2021, the dann was given a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, following which the Uttarakhand Handloom and Handicraft Development Council (UHHDC) began to assist in its marketing and sale at outlets as well as online.
Bibliography
Baral, Bibhudatta et al. “Woolen Pile Carpets: Uttarakhand.” D’source: Resources. Accessed December 17, 2022. https://dsource.in/sites/default/files/resource/woolen-pile-carpets-uttarakhand/downloads/file/88_147_woolen_pile_carpets_uttarakhand.pdf.
Chakrabarty, Anjali. “From Creating Carpets to Crushing Stones.” People’s Archive of Rural India (PARI), October 31, 2017. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://ruralindiaonline.org/en/articles/from-creating-carpets-to-crushing-stones/.
Chatterjee, Bishwa B. “The Bhotias of Uttarakhand.” India International Centre Quarterly 3, no. 1 (January 1976): 3–16. https://www.jstor.org/stable/23001864.
Chopra, Sanjeev. “Uniqueness of the Craft.” Millennium Post. March 5, 2022. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://www.millenniumpost.in/sundaypost/beacon/uniqueness-of-the-craft-470272.
Dhar, Shivani. “Woolen Weaves of the Hills.” Gaatha. March 11, 2010. Accessed December 17, 2022. https://gaatha.com/woolen-weaves-of-the-hills/.
“Bhotiyas and Himalayan Wool.” Himalayan Weavers. Accessed December 6, 2024. https://himalayanweavers.org/bhotiyas-and-himalayan-wool/.
Ranjan, Aditi, and M. P. Ranjan. Handmade in India: Crafts of India. New Delhi: Mapin, 2007.
Rawat, Harsha, Anita Rani, and Alka Goel. “Sustainable Traditional Dyeing of Wool by Bhotia Tribe in Himalayan Region: A Case Study.” Journal of Applied and Natural Science 11, no. 2 (2019): 379–83. https://doi.org/10.31018/jans.v11i2.2068.
Rawat, Harsha. “Traditional Tribal Textiles of Uttarakhand: A Study on Production and Consumption Practices among Bhotia Tribals.” PhD thesis, G. B. Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, 2020. https://krishikosh.egranth.ac.in/handle/1/5810153296.
Srivastava, Nupur, and Alka Goel. “Documentation of Traditional Costumes, Textiles and Accessories of Bhotia Tribe of Uttarakhand.” International Journal of Home Science 4, no. 3 (2018): 189–97. https://www.homesciencejournal.com/archives/2018/vol4issue3/PartD/4-3-28-480.pdf.
Tripathi, Shikha. “The Magic Weavers of Munsyari.” Conde Nast Traveller, August 30, 2017. https://www.cntraveller.in/story/magic-weavers-munsyari/.