An embroidery technique consisting primarily of a simple chain stitch using woolen thread,is called crewel embroidery. Some scholars believe that this technique originated in the twelfth century among the mochi (cobbler) community of Kutch, who used it to embroider leather and was later popularised by the Mughals. Others suggest it was first used by craftsmen from Damascus during Sultan Zain-ul-Abidini’s rule in Kashmir, in the sixteenth century, where it is known as kashida or zalakdozi.

It is done with quick successive movements of clockwise and anticlockwise rotations of the ari hook resulting in brightly coloured, slightly raised motifs. While similar to ari embroidery, crewel makes use of a thicker awl and is used to embellish coarser materials like leather, upholstery and drapery. Common motifs that are embroidered include floral patterns and naturalistic motifs such as birds, trees and leaves.